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Programs > Getting Ready to Exhibit at a Show
GETTING READY TO EXHIBIT AT A SHOW
Any member of the Pakenham Horticultural Society may be an exhibitor. The number on your membership card is your exhibitor’s number for all entries in the Society’s shows in the current year. These numbers are not used when exhibiting in the District 2 or OHA shows.
NOVICE EXHIBITOR IN DESIGN ARRANGEMENT CLASSES
Senior members who have never previously exhibited may show in the Novice Design Arrangement Class for a maximum of two years. Novice exhibitors may show in the Open Class but cannot show in both classes and, having shown in the Open Class, cannot return to the Novice Class.
Every entry requires an entry tag, available at the show or from the Chairperson of the Show Committee prior to the show. Information you need for the tag is provided in the current year flower show schedules.
Exhibitor’s Number is the same as your membership number for the year. For name and address preprinted mailing address labels are fast and convenient.
When filled out, fold at the perforation and tuck tab into the slot so the name is concealed during judging. Attach the entry tag to your exhibit with an elastic or tie whenever possible.
FLOWER SHOW RULES
NOTE: Please do not use protected, scarce or endangered native plants.
SPECIMEN FLOWERS AND VEGETABLES are judged on their condition, size and uniformity. All specimens should be as nearly alike as possible in size, form and colour, unless otherwise specified in the schedule. Where a number of specimens are involved, such as collections, they may vary in size and colour but should be at the same stage of development.
DESIGN ARRANGEMENTS are judged on originality, the use of the elements and principles of design, the condition of the material used and matching the theme.
For more information on how flower, vegetables and arrangements are judged, see THE ONTARIO JUDGING AND EXHIBITIONS STANDARDS, Publication 34 and available from the Pakenham Horticultural Society or Garden Clubs of Ontario %Royal Botanical Gardens, Box 399, Hamilton, On L8N 3H8 for $6.00 plus postage.
CONDITIONING CUT FLOWERS FOR SHOWING
PREPARATION is the process that allows the plant tissue to absorb the maximum capacity of water, as well as the special conditions that assist in having fresh, long lasting specimens and arrangements. Select the highest quality of flowers, ones that are just beginning to open. Check for and remove any insects, disease, pollen, dirt or any other foreign material. Collect the flowers and foliage in the early morning when the water content is the highest, or in the evening when the sugar content is high. Cut the stems at an angle to best absorb water and cut longer than needed, then place in container of clean, warm water. Bring indoors, remove lower leaves, recut the stems and place in cool water as deep as possible without covering leaves or flowers and store in a cool, dim location. Additives can be used to retard bacterial growth, such as an aspirin or ¼ teaspoon citric acid or ¼ teaspoon liquid bleach per gallon of conditioning water.
*SPRING BULB FLOWERS
The sap from tulips and daffodils pollutes the water so these flowers should be conditioned in separate containers from other flowers for a few hours. Rinse well and then place in clean water for display or add to flower arrangements. When cutting tulips include only one leaf. Pierce tulip stem with a needle directly below the flower and wrap in newspaper to keep the stems straight.
Daffodil/narcissus special notes:
*Trumpet: The trumpet or corona is as long or longer than the surrounding petals
*Long or Large Cup: The cup or corona is more than 1/3 but less than equal to the length of the surrounding petals.
*Small Cup: The cup or corona is not more than 1/3 the size of the surrounding petals.
*FLOWERS WITH MILKY SAP
Flowers such as oriental poppies, zinnias, euphorbias and poinsettias require the ends of their stems to be sealed after cutting. They can be singed over a flame or the tips immersed in boiling water for a few seconds. Wrap the flowers in a cone of newspaper to prevent the heat/steam from affecting the blooms.
*FLOWERS WITH WOODY STEMS
Flowers such as lilacs, roses, chrysanthemums, and other flowering shrubs require the bark at the end of the stem be scraped away and the base of the stem to be cut with a cross split up to 1-2 inches. Immerse the stems in boiling water for 30 seconds, while protecting the blooms from the hot steam with a cone of newspaper, then plunge the stems into cool water for conditioning. Woody stems can also be hammered to increase absorption but that method makes the stems more susceptible to bacterial decay.
*FLOWERS WITH HOLLOW STEMS
Flowers such as dahlias, delphiniums, hollyhocks, gladiolas and amaryllis need to have their hollow stems filled with water. Turn the stems upside down, pour water into them until full and then plug the ends with cotton or floral foam. To eliminate air that might be trapped in the stem, pierce the stem beneath the flower head with a pin. Immerse the plugged ends in boiling water for a few seconds and then in clean tepid water for conditioning.
Last Updated: 2019-02-24